Wine: Domaine de la Sauveuse Provence 2001, Crystal Valley Cellars Ol’ Red
It’s perhaps the biggest argument in wine today… the enthusiasts for the subtle complexity of Old World wines against the lovers of the big bold fruit-forward high alcohol New World wines. There are plenty of proponents on both sides of the fence, from the wine guy at my local gourmet market who swears by big Zins and South American wines to Eric Asimov from the New York Times who calls them “too jammy, too much flavor, too plush.” It’s not just old vs new, since there are plenty of exceptions… subtle California Pinot Noirs, Primitivo - the Zinfandel cousin in South Italy, and the meaty wines of Spain and Portugal. It is merely an argument of style, “less is more” vs “the more the better”.
I have been on the side of New World wines for a while now, and why wouldn’t I be. I’m young, getting introduced to the world of wine, and French wine has a steep learning curve and high cost of entry. It also doesn’t hurt that I spent my honeymoon in Napa Valley, getting accustomed to what $30 bottles of quality Californian wines taste like. But I’ve been trying to prep for my husband and I’s trip to France and Italy this fall, so Old World wines have been entering into our rotation. At first it was a shock, Old World wines can have the tendency to seem sour and dull, but lately there has been a change in my perception. Here are two red blends in the same price range that we had last week:
Crystal Valley Cellars Ol’ Red
Everything but the kitchen sink: Pinot Noir, Syrah, Carignane, Zinfandel, Merlot, Sangiovese, Mouvedre, Petite Sirah and a few other things. The first sip was fireworks going off in my mouth, information overload. It is a shock to the system that has you wanting more. It’s fruit, smoke, oak, spice, banging off like pop rocks. The next few sips warm your tongue and taste of dark fruit and rich jam, the feel is thick and round. Half way through your first glass, the magic wears off. You are left with an inky pleasant taste that is smooth, not sour in the slightest, but it’s kool-aid, no complexity.
Domaine de la Sauveuse Provence 2001
Hearty blend of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet and Mouvedre. First sip is nothing special. Luckily, it’s not notably sour, but it is also not notably fruity even after an hour worth of decanting. It’s pleasant to drink. After your taste buds begin to warm up a little bit, new flavors start to peak out. It’s still all light, but if you sip it just right it will dance on your tongue as your taste buds search to identify the flavors. Definately a sipper, not a gulper that can be had with or without food.
Both of these wines were enjoyable, but I’d buy the French over the Californian. Nothing in the French could compare to that first sip of the Ol’ Red, but after the fireworks went off, there was nothing left to get excited about. But the world of under $20 wines of the Old World are a more treacherous territory filled with loads of sour grapes. The mark up from importing and reputation mixed with the France’s imperfect rating system makes it hard to find the gems. It’s safer to grab a bottle from the Californian shelves. Even if it is kool-aid, it is still more drinkable than a mouth puckering wine.
What is the future of this wine argument? For me, going to France and Italy and experiencing cheap but amazing Old World wine will probably change my whole viewpoint. But for the rest of the Vinenials… will their preference for kool-aid change the landscape of popular wine or will they burn out on it? Will Old World winemakers start selling to the needs of a growing audience?
technorati tags: judgement of paris, french wine, californian wine
You must be logged in to post a comment.
RECENT WINES